Category Archives: India & Around


Ancient connections to come alive through “Ghadai”, an initiative by the Kumbhars (potters) of Kutch

The arts and crafts from the Kutch region are well known today. There is a lot of interest in the fabrics, the weaves, the prints, silver jewellery, copper artifacts and these products are in demand not only in India, but all over the world. Yet, one craft which is not getting the focus and appreciation it deserves is pottery.

Reviving the ancient art of Kutch pottery

The history of pottery in the Kutch region dates back 5000 years at least. Pottery products have been excavated from the archaelogical site of Dholavira, an ancient city belonging to the Indus Valley civilisation.

Talking to Meera Goradia, the director of the Kutch-based NGO KHAMIR, I get to know a little more about the efforts being taken to bring alive the tradition of potters in the region. There are many who have stopped their craft, mainly due to a loss in livelihood. In some villages, the potter’s wheel now lies unturned. Yet in others, there is renewed interest as the craft has also started integrating aspects of newer and more contemporary designs that might appeal to a modern consumer. It is a tough challenge, no doubt, but a step in the right direction is an exhibition being planned to be held from January to March of next year.

Pottery is as an art form that dates back to many centuries in the Kutch region

I spent a few days with KHAMIR and had some wonderful interactions with the team which is coordinating the efforts there, including project coordinator Niraj Dave, Shrishti Verma (who is meticulously documenting everything), Gayatri Kodikal (filming/photography), Mumbai based ceramic artist Rekha Goyal (curator for the project), local Bhuj potter Ramzubhai and Ganibhai and American India Foundation fellow Gini Morgan. Meera keeps an eye on the overall direction and progress.

Involving traditional potters from seven clusters

The aim is to get local potters involved in the exhibition, and give them a platform to showcase products for a craft that needs a fillip and encouragement. Secondly, involve different sections of society and gather enough interest in the project and expose it to a wide audience. Named after the age-old technique called “Ghadai” used by traditional potters of Kutch to create large objects, the exhibition has been conceptualised to showcase the handicrafts of the kumbhars.

One of the potters shaping objects using the ghadai technique

In this technique, a basic form is first thrown on the wheel. After that, using different sized round stones and a “paddle”, a desired shape and size is beaten out of it. While it looks deceptively simple, it requires a lot of skill and hard work.

According to KHAMIR, “Ghadai will evoke the ancient connections of the human spirit and clay through archaeology, mythology, and traditions; explore the process of pottery from mud to final product; highlight the significance of the craft through traditional and modern uses; and provoke questions about the future of the craft, the artisans, and the societies we build.”

Traditionally, men work on the wheel but women often do the hard work like wedging, kneading clay and the painting work

The NGO is working with seven traditional pottery clusters of the desert region and also attempting to trace the history of pottery in this area. Currently, the team is travelling through different villages, talking, interacting and filming the artisans in order to compile a comprehensive history of the craft. I accompanied the team on an excursion (more of which will come in a later post) and it was interesting to see potters talk about their challenges and witness their dedication to keep their craft alive.

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The team walking around Gundayali village on a visit

In the village of Gundayali (close to Mandvi town) Yusufbhai talks about how in every village, the most important member would traditionally be the potter; he was bestowed with the name prajapati, lord of the people. Sadly, with the products losing relevance, many of them replaced by metal, plastic and other artificial material, the “need” for such products has gone down drastically.

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Yusufbhai, who is one of the potters of Gundayali village talking about some of the issues they face today

Though Yusufbhai continues to create terracotta objects, he is aware that many are giving up this profession. His son, for many years lived in Mumbai, working in the retail industry and came back home a few years ago. Though he doesn’t work with clay, he has realised the potential and helps his father sell his wares. “I go off with a truckload of products and visit all the interior villages in this region for many months at a time, selling products,” says the son.

While potters are finding it difficult to sell their wares, there is also an issue of underpricing. The little diyas for example, are being bargained for Rs 2-3, which is a miserable amount if you look at the fact that the effort of the potter – finding and sourcing the clay, kneading/wedging, making, firing, painting – is hardly covered. The size of the object might be small, but no one want to give him what’s due for his effort. For a potter, at these prices, his business is not sustainable.

This is perhaps where NGOs like KHAMIR are playing a part in terms of defining better market rates for the potter, ensuring he gets his due and of course, even suggesting more contemporary designs that might appeal to a consumer. KHAMIR is already doing this and their store contains quite a few pottery products, much of it produced in their in-house studio.

Re-creating pottery objects lost to time

Ghadai will showcase pieces that are re-creations of traditional pottery objects that were used in the region but have been lost to time. As a result of a largely oral tradition of continuing know-how, and the lack of formalized curation and documentation of traditional crafts, some of these pieces are not even found in museums. It was through dedicated efforts of the team that potters were identified who were familiar with the techniques of making these forms. Some of them know the object, and the techniques involved, but have probably not made that particular object for many years.

Husainbhai working on one of the pieces for the exhibition at the Khamir in-house studio

This is a big challenge. Niraj, who is one of the leads in the project says that working with potters has been a interesting experience despite all these roadblocks. He enjoys the interactions with the artisans and going out to different villages to identify the right people, talk to them and try to get them excited about the larger picture. Undoubtedly not an easy task. Many of them are not convinced much will come out of a “concept”. Others like Ramzubhai are getting actively involved, travelling with the team to help them facilitate the process.

DSC_0062Bhuj based traditional potter Ganibhai has been working very closely with the team

For Rekha too, who is based in Mumbai and makes a trip every month, it has been an enriching experience so far. She says, “There are layers of craft, culture, tradition, modernity, history and society that constantly push and tug at each other. Understanding the craft and the craftsmen in a local context and making it relevant to modern changes without losing sight of the integrity of the craft and its people has been a challenge and a learning. But the richness and serenity of pottery, the region, its culture and people drives me to keep pushing the boundaries in an effort to help get the art form of the region to its rightful place.”

It all culminates in an exhibition and an auction

The Ghadai show opens at the KHAMIR campus in Bhuj, Kutch on January 17, 2015 and will be on till the March 31, 2015. During this time it will also travel to Mumbai for a special display at Hermès, 15 A Horniman Circle, Mumbai from February 12 to March 1, 2015.

IMG_0893The beautiful KHAMIR campus will play host to the exhibition: Mark your calendars if you plan to visit Kutch and Gujarat during this time

The pieces will be auctioned online on the KHAMIR website from February 12, 2015 to March 1, 2015. Proceeds of the auction will go towards continuing the work of KHAMIR within the handicraft space.

It was set-up in the aftermath of the 2001 earthquake in Bhuj with the primary focus of reviving the livelihood of the craft artisans, especially those that were completely destroyed in the earthquake. KHAMIR is committed to the preservation of the crafts, culture and cultural ecosystems of the craft communities of the region. KHAMIR does this by providing these communities of craftsmen with a framework within which they can refine and develop their craft. There are dedicated studios and teams focused on R&D which strengthen local value chains, design & product development and providing market access.

Watch the video: Ghadai by the Kumbh Kumbhars

Follow KHAMIR and the project on Facebook

For any enquries, reach out to:
Meera Goradia, Director KHAMIR,, +91 9825321082
Rekha Goyal, Curator,, +91 9833058151
This project was selected for support by the Fondation d’entreprise Hermès as part of the H3 programme: Head – Heart – Hand.

Scent of cardamom and taste of fresh honey: A visit to the Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow

There’s something about a bungalow that was constructed in the 1800s. It feels like stepping back in time. The way the doors close. The old style latches and windows. The feel of the cool red floor under your bare feet. But the TV and the WiFi suddenly brings you back to present tense also giving you a sense of modern comforts!

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A part of the bungalow which has been renovated for guests. Photo courtesy: KH Plantation

A bit of history – “the current owner’s grandfather, K K Kurian Kalarickal, settled in this area (Idukki district) in the early 1900s when the hills were still thick with forests and wildlife. He was among a few pioneers to make his way into the mountains and begin cultivating them.”

Luckily, this area is untouched and still verdant and retains much of it’s charm. K K Kurian built this original bungalow in 1918 and for many years it was a landmark in Idukki. It doubled up as a village office for planters and visitors who came for advise. The bungalow was built using clay instead of cement.

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A glimpse of the old heritage building

I was lucky that Sam Mathew, the grandson of Mr Kurian Kalarickal had come down personally from Mumbai during my quick trip to the bungalow. Merin, his wife had extended a gracious invite to come and stay at the property.

Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow
The plantation spans many acres and the best way to get around is the all terrain vehicle. Photo courtesy: KH Plantation

Sam gives me an insight of plantation life. The area is huge and I get to ride on an ATV which is a handy vehicle to cover the hilly terrain around the plantation and property. I accompany him as he shows me the different areas. We go up a green woody trail to the highest point in the property. We’re surrounded by dense trees on all sides. It’s beautiful and serene and Sam reveals that he might just construct something here for those wanting to get away from the hustle and bustle.

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The life and times of cardamom!

The highpoint of my visit to Kalarickal however is a different experience; a visit to an auction. The product being traded? Cardamom! I never knew there could be so much commotion over this small innocuous looking spice. Apparently, the life of a cardamom pod is filled with much excitement. From the time it’s grown, harvested, dried and then put into gunny bags and then at the auction house, when it’s tossed around from one buyer to another in the hope that it commands a good price in the market. I think it wouldn’t hurt much to be born a cardamom sometime.

Kalarickal Heritagel Bungalow

Cardamon is a spice that is used in many different dishes. It is used extensively in the preparation of Indian sweets, something Sam reveals (and I didn’t know!). I learn something everyday. Many large companies buy it in bulk to add to their sweets. And a lot of the cardamon also gets exported to cater to the huge demand overseas.

Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow

On the auction ground, men (no women here) are hunched over computer screens, sniffing at cardamom packets, eyeing them suspiciously, tossing them aside or eyeing them with great interest. All for a good cause. And then a large screen on the top shows how much the buyer is willing to pay for it. And then the next batch goes around.

Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow

People also watch from the sidelines. Many of them are sellers, informs Sam. These folks often come up to buyers to try and egg them to purchase their lots or least inform them it’s up next. And then on one side there’s a flurry of activity; sorting, weighing and packaging. Making me wonder if some stuff doesn’t get mixed up. And what happens to all the cardamom tossed aside!

With thoughts like these playing in my head, we get back to the bungalow and the smell of delicious food wafting in the air. Let me warn you folks that it’s not a good idea to visit Kerala on a diet. I have tried to keep away from all these delicious treats and failed miserably. Every time I go with steely resolve. And return defeated. And several pounds heavier. Let me get back to the food. There was a dry chicken fry preparation, a yummy avial laced with coconut, and piping hot appams with egg stew. I threw caution to the winds and expanding waistline and started to dig in.

Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow
Soft and delicious Kerala appams with stew – one signature dish you can’t miss if you’re in Kerala

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The dining area for meals. Photo Courtesy: KH Plantation

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I also get a taste of fresh honey made from hives on the property. And a quick lesson about these hardworking insects and the art of creating honey. They create honey, covering them in hexagonal structures inside the hive, using the support of the small wooden frames placed inside. We take out a slab and remove a slice of the “white” piece. And out oozes the nectar. I’ve never had such fresh honey before!

The main bungalow is designed to fit in large families and the rooms are interconnected. It’s suitable for for families who want to keep an eye out on their errant kids.

Besides the main building, there are also a few more rooms in another long building (which was earlier a shed) but now has been converted into comfortable stand-alone rooms. These are also an option if you are travelling as a couple in a smaller group.

Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow
A shed, now converted into comfortable rooms. Photo courtesy: KH Plantation

The property also has an ample playground outside with swings, see-saws and whatever young children need these days. I suspect an iPad, but well, one mustn’t give up hope completely.

There are some sights around which you might also want to explore, especially if you have a few days in hand. You will be close to sights such as the Periyar Wildlife sanctuary, Munnar, Idukki dam and the Managala Devi temple. There are other activities like plantation walks and hikes that can be organised. Or I recommend what I prefer – a full day of lounging chair, eating good food and doing nothing. Maybe just read a book, sleep and laze.

Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow
Relax and breathe in the fresh air scented with cardamom!

If you’re looking at options in the Idukki district which are homely, comfortable and take you away from the hustle and bustle; the Kalarikal Heritage Bungalow makes for a good choice.

The website: Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow
Tariff: Starts from Rs 3250 and also includes breakfast. Other meals are additional.
Rooms: 3 premium and 2 classic.
Facebook: Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow
My Flickr Album (some of the pics are courtesy KH Plantation)


Where cranes sing and flamingos dance: Into the Banni Grasslands Reserve

Thousands of birds call the Banni Grasslands Reserve in Kutch, Gujarat their home. An excursion into this dry but rich ecosystem, has delightful surprises unfold, as you turn every corner.

“Leave nothing but footprints; and plant trees. Lots of trees.”

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Flamingos against a beautiful sunrise over the Banni Grasslands. Photo credit: Jugal Tiwari

Only someone wise and passionate can utter these words. And they come from none other than Jugal Tiwari of the Center for Desert and Ocean (CEDO). Established in 2005, the organisation has been tireless working on ecology and conservation issues for the last 9 years. Tiwari, who is originally from Rajasthan, on a visit to Kutch, fell in love with this area.

Banni Grasslands

It’s not hard to imagine why. What appears at first sight to be dry scrub desert, has more surprises, twists and turns than a detective novel and you look forward with anticipation to the next sight!
We enter the reserve in the early morning hours. The cranes are already up, and fly across the morning sky, just beginning to glow with the first rays of the sun. In the horizon, another flock is taking off. And then yet another. Flying in their trademark V formations or sometimes in a line, behind each other.

Banni Grasslands

The common crane is resident of the reserve from September to April.

Banni Grasslands
Says Tiwari, “when they leave, it’s like your mobile has gone into silent mode”. Their song is replaced by silence. And then again in September (between 17-19) when they arrive, the skies are taken over by their happy song, heard even from a distance. This is what has kept Tiwari going, every year for the last nine years. He knows each and every specimen in this area, their behaviour, their whereabouts (most of the time!).

Banni Grasslands

As the early morning light casts a magical glow on the surroundings, I ask him why it’s called a grassland. This is something even Tiwari is not sure of. There are wetlands, dry scrub, bush, Prosopis juliflora (invasive non-native species) and weeds (as in the picture). But there is no grass anywhere. And yet this area is called a “grassland”. Perhaps, the guy who named it was sitting at a desk somewhere and somehow forgot to actually visit the region!

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The lesser flamingo takes flight. Photo credit: Jugal Tiwari

For miles on end, all around you, there are cranes everywhere. On the ground, and up in the air. Of course, you can’t really get close to them. The minute they see you approach, they take flight, gliding gracefully across the skies. In the opposite direction.

Banni Grasslands

We park in an open area where for miles we see weeds and Tiwari points out the Chari Dhandh – the main water body where the flamingos arrive in droves. The pink flamingo is resident in the park during this time. They are usually in the water, feasting on small water insects. From the distance, I can easily count hundreds. This time, the rains haven’t been good enough, says Tiwari. As a result, the water will dry up soon.

In another corner of the lake, are a flock of pelicans. These large birds float on the water and move together, as if in slow motion. It’s like watching a ballet performance. With birds. Another corner, Tiwari points out spoonbills – I drink in every sight hungrily – through the binoculars. As a city resident, the only thing we usually see around for miles are roof tops and ugly concrete structures. This is paradise; a sight to be remembered.

Banni Grasslands

Up in the air, there is more drama. A marsh harrier is being chased by a couple of smaller birds, trying to scare him off. And then a whole drove of rosy starlings sweeps across my field of view.

Banni Grasslands

After watching the watery ballet and on air drama, we move towards the dry scrub area. The birds are up early morning and they’re dancing from one shrub to another. We’re lucky to see a jackal strike a pose and look towards something.

Banni Grasslands

A little further down, a Steppe eagle is surveying his prey. It strikes a majestic pose; and when in flight it has an impressive wing span of around 6 feet. On a tree top is another bird of prey – the long-legged buzzard. They’re all looking for breakfast.

Banni Grasslands

From the shrub, we move on to an even drier area. Just small clumps and scorched earth. Even here, there are birds, small mammals and insects. You just need a keen eye. Our driver, well acquainted with the environment by now, spots a sleeping fox. She is curled up beside a shrub and let us gaze at her for a few minutes. Our few minutes of paparazzi like behaviour is more than she can take. After giving us a glance, she slinks off into the distance.

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The Indian Eagle Owl in all it’s glory. Photo credit: Jugal Tiwari

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The painted sandgrouse. Photo credit: Jugal Tiwari

There are many birds – including bulbuls, the desert warblers, drongos, larks, babblers, bee eaters – this is truly birder’s paradise. I have limited knowledge of birds, but am always fascinated by these tiny creatures, with their rich plumage and beautiful and distinctive markings. It’s not difficult to imagine how bird watching can become an all consuming and addictive hobby.

Banni Grasslands

As we wander around, suddenly we notice a huge herd of cows walk purposefully towards the Chari Dandh. They have been grazing all night and are now all thirsty. All of them rush towards the water.

Banni Grasslands

Having had their fill, they move away, and we’re treated to yet another beautiful sight – hundreds of camels moving towards their water. It’s time for the cows to go home and give way to the camels.

Banni Grasslands

They enter the water one after another and one of the herders also goes in with them. I read somewhere that a 600 kg camel can drink 300 litres of water in 3 minutes. How’s that for a guzzler?

Banni Grasslands

Tiwari tells me a little more about the extensive research he has conducted in this area. He is hopeful about putting it all together in a book – he has pictures of even the rarer creatures like the striped hyena, the nightjar and the owl. All he needs is a bit of help on the writing front. If he can get some funding, Tiwari is confident about publishing a book on this region – an area that needs more awareness. After all, this rich bio diversity and wildlife should be acknowledged and recognized.

Banni Grasslands

I have no doubts that there’s enough in this dry desert landscape to fill a book. Tiwari has accompanied many photographers into the field on different assignments, helped channels such as Discovery (one of these programs is being currently aired) and National Geographic to portray and take back data, photos and documentation from this region.

Banni Grasslands

What upsets him however is the lack of etiquette of people. Whether it is the way plastic is being used and consumed to the irresponsible behaviour towards our natural environment – Tiwari expresses his disappointment. And rightly so. Even I was alarmed. The day before, when walking on a dry river bed near CEDO, he points out rocks that age to the Jurassic era.

Banni Grasslands

This is very close to the town and yet hardly anyone knows about it. Which is probably a good thing. Except that some irresponsible campers found their way here. Using some of these pre-historic stones as props for making a fire, they’ve left behind remnants of their celebrations – banana skin, tissue paper, charcoal and firewood. What a shame. There are some things Indians shouldn’t do. Camping for one. They have no idea about etiquette. They’re so used to littering everywhere, that their natural instinct is to leave behind all the rubbish. Even if it’s a beautiful viewpoint or a place of historical importance. As a collective people, we don’t have enough sense or responsibility about the impact of the damage we’re doing. There is absolutely no respect for nature. Look at all the plastic people throw around carelessly. No one cares. This beautiful area should be safeguarded and treated as a “historical” site, and yet, people do the only thing they know – trash it.

This is where Tiwari utters his words about “leaving nothing but footprints”.

Why do we go to national heritage monuments, and beautiful view points and leave behind all our rubbish? Something that confounds me greatly. Much as I’m proud of this beautiful and diverse country, I am ashamed at the way we treat our national and natural treasures.

Tiwari’s foundation today is doing some great work in both conservation and helping villages by bringing them the power of solar energy. All this, he does apart from his work and his homestay, which brings him some income. All the rest of his initiatives like workshops, awareness sessions, and planting trees – especially for schools are all free.

His message resounds in my mind long after I’ve left. Plant more trees – everyone in their lifetime should plan at least a few 100 trees. Don’t leave planet earth without planting a few trees. Actually, at least a hundred. It’s the very least one can do to preserve our beautiful and diverse planet.

(Note: With many thanks to Jugal Tiwari for being a wonderful guide to the Banni. And also for the usage of some of his beautiful pictures, as I wasn’t equipped for bird photography!).

Flickr Album: Into the Banni Grasslands

Update: Discovery is currently showing this show: Revealed: The Rann of Kutch. Two more days to catch it!
12/12/2014 02:00 PM
14/12/2014 01:00 PM


Wanderings in Bhuj: a photo journey

Like any other small but burgeoning town in this country, Bhuj exhibits all the usual signs. Development on one side – good wide main roads, vehicles, ATMs, and everyone flashing smart phones. But on the other hand, the litter and garbage everywhere is an indication that no lessons in waste management have been implemented. Sadly, it’s just everywhere, including the water body in the middle of the city – the Hamirsar lake.

Steeped in history, and scarred by a devastating earthquake in 2001, some parts of the old fort are still standing and visible as you move through the town. There are monuments that are crumbling, derelict, which give you a glimpse of those glory years. The small gallis through the town hold a quaint charm, albeit a little diminished by large amounts of garbage lying everywhere.

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Like any small but growing town, Bhuj has fallen prey to all the usual problems

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The narrow lanes are abuzz with activity

As I touched down in the small Bhuj airport and made my way down the main road, I am excited about my first trip to Gujarat. I decided to bypass Ahmedabad and Baroda, the larger towns, and head straight to Bhuj. My primary reason being that my hosts, Katie and Jehan Bhujwala have graciously offered to put me up at their ancestral home in the town and also help me out with my itinerary.

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Situated in the camp area, the view from the home of my hosts Katie and Jehan

Wanderings in Bhuj
The house is lovely and is currently being renovated. It will soon be possible to stay there as Katie and Jehan will open it out as a home stay, hopefully from January 2015 onwards

The house is in the camp area and is constructed in the old style, with tall ceilings, filled with charming antique furniture around a large centre courtyard. The old world ambience still lingers on when you enter.

Once I’ve gotten my bearings, along with my hosts, I set off on a small “discover Bhuj” tour. The town still has the remnants of the old fort, and in places it’s quite intact. We pass by a beautiful gate with some detailed carvings.

Wanderings in Bhuj
Parts of the old fort, still stand tall

The narrow gallis take us to an old building from the British Raj – an orange coloured structure that was the district collector’s office. In the afternoon sun, it reflects the light and still looks regal and stands out amidst the new concrete structures. Today, it faces a grim fate though. Like many of our beautiful old buildings; it will likely be ruined totally or razed to the ground.

Wanderings in Bhuj
A building that is now abandoned; testament to the glory days of the past

A short ride away, is the Prag Mahal palace. The old jharokhas and balconies are still intricate and stand out on the palace wall. To the opposite side, is the new version of the palace. The earthquake of 2001 affected quite a lot of the palace walls and structure.

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The old palace walls, though affected by the earthquake still sport intricately carved jharokhas

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The new Prag Mahal palace, opposite the older one

The new building has an imposing clock tower and with its red brick walls, it projects a feeling of warmth in the fading light.
We wander over to the Bhuj market. Like any Indian bazaar, it’s busy, crowded and filled with people, cows and assorted creatures. Two wheelers and rickshaws honk, trying to assert their right of way. Mostly to be ignored. The honking gets more insistent. Women are about doing their clothes shopping, buying vegetables, silver jewellery, “farsan” – you name it, and it’s available in the market. Including music systems in case you’re missing one at home.

Wanderings in Bhuj
For any kind of shopping, head to the Bhuj market

We wander around the streets for a while peeking into the different shops. A farsan shop walla generously allows us to taste a bit of his freshly fried goodies.

Wanderings in Bhuj
Women flocking in front of an obviously popular shop
Wanderings in Bhuj
A shopkeeper gets creative with his doors!
Wanderings in Bhuj
Beautiful antique silver jewellery for sale
Wanderings in Bhuj
No trip to Kutch without stocking up on their intricate embroidery work

A great place for juice is Bhudia’s which is another ride away from the market in an area near the Hamisar lake. The juice is fresh and we choose a delicious mix – guava and pomegranate – much recommended. They also have an organic farm a little outside of Bhuj where you can get a taste of the local thali, if you want to make the journey.

I’m happy with my first taste and sights of Gujarat. I even have fish fry for dinner, (after a visit to the local fish market) which I was a bit surprised about. I had planned to go vegetarian for this trip!

Wanderings in Bhuj
The local fish market in Bhuj is an assault on the senses. But we did get some fresh fish

Wanderings in Bhuj
A fish monger at work

I settle into my large room, adjoining a busy road listening to the hustle and bustle of traffic. My initiation into Gujarat has been hectic, noisy, smelly and colourful. But then I wouldn’t have it any other way!

Also check out the Bhuj Diaries album on Flickr

The greenery awaits you as you make your way through the forest

Forays into the forest: Here’s why I love it!

I look forward to opportunities to travel to the different jungles and reserves in India whenever I can. We don’t realise it but we’re really lucky – there are so many (still) to choose from. Most states boast of such rich flora, fauna and reserved forests and I am still discovering many of them. I’ve written about my experience in Kaziranga, the amazingly beautiful sanctuary in Assam and home to the endangered rhino.


Last December, I travelled into the dense and magical jungles of Kanha and came back mesmerised. What variety and beauty around every corner. Every trip into the forest was filled with surprises and delightful encounters. So what if I didn’t spot the elusive cat (well, that’s another story, for another day!) but I’ve loved every adventure into the forest.

Male spotted deer

This time, it was an opportunity to visit the Kali Adventure Camp, thanks to Jungle Lodges, and though the monsoons have set in, I still thought it would be a good experience. I was also lucky to be in the company of Supriya Sehgal, who blogs at Teafortravel and is a well-known author of several Lonely Planet guides. So I was in good company!

The green view from the cottage of the Kali River Camp, Dandeli

Here’s why I love my adventures into the forest…

A chance to take in the peace and quiet

I frankly much prefer the chirping of birds, the cacophony of cicadas or the call of a deer. We easily call it noise, but it’s more like sounds of the jungle. And I would rather listen to these sounds than the constant honking of vehicles in the city, where people are in a mad rush to reach Lord only knows where and create such a ruckus in the process.

Into the forest

The jungle on the other hand is the last refuge of a different kind of quietude. Some people call it “dull”. Some people don’t actually know what to do with themselves in a forest. There’s a stillness that can be a balm in our hurried lives. I think if you want to just step back for a while, and let a different kind of peace wash over you, the forest is the place to head to.

The anticipation of what’s to come

Arjun our guide on this trip has his ears and eyes attuned to everything; even the slightest movement catches his eye. It’s interesting to watch naturalists in their habitat and at work. They are extremely sharp and develop an innate sense of knowing when an animal is nearby. Their ears alert to even the smallest of sounds. I remember a time in Kanha, when we sighted a dead sambar on the roadside. It was definitely a tiger kill, and we thought he would come back for his lunch. So we waited there for nearly an hour.

Tiger kill

There’s nothing much you can do really but hope during this period. And anticipate. And try and predict which way the animal might appear from. Sadly, it was not to be. The tiger was in no mood to appease our hunger for a sighting. But a lot of the fun was in the anticipation.

You’re alert, you know there are many eyes watching you from behind the tall bushes and grasses. But whether you get to see them is a matter of your luck and chance! The animals are not going to give you anything on a platter for sure.

The thrill of the sighting

While most people think they’ll see a tiger the first time they go out into the forest, the chances are actually quite low. Arjun tells us that there are around 15 tigers in this massive Dandeli-Anshi stretch. Imagine the possibility of a tiger in your path just as you happen to be on a safari. You can just calculate and imagine the chance. It’s rather low. But there are so many other animals in the forest, that while you’re possibly looking to sight a tiger, it’s really interesting to see other animals in their natural habitat. Many endangered, rare and quite shy of any thing that resembles a human being. Arjun spots a pack of wild jackals in a far away bush. Something we would never have seen without his help. Jackals are shy (like most other animals) and we are lucky to sight 3 of them in a pack. They look at us too for a moment. It must be a better sighting for them I’m thinking. There are 4 of us.

Then there are the spotted deer who stare at us when we are quite a distance away. Or dash across the road trying to avoid us. But as soon as we approach, they skitter away.

The shy spotted deer looking at us before disappearing into the bushes

High up on a tree is the serpent eagle, regal and patient, waiting to spot his prey on the ground. Once he catches sight, he will swoop down and catch it, leaving his prey very little chance to escape. On another branch is the pretty peacock, exhibiting his feathers in a downward swoop and letting us admire him from afar. When he’s had enough, he disappears into the wild.

The thrill of a sighting can keep a wildlife lover in raptures for hours, days and even years!

It’s a lush, human free zone

There’s something I really like about the fact that the forest is lush, green and also an area where there are very few humans. The forest is one last refuge that we must guard strongly. Especially, in a country teeming with a billion and a half people, it’s absolutely refreshing to not sight another human. Though I was deeply disappointed when at the end of our safari, we encountered a jeep filled with loud tourists, whose group contained two women wearing yellow neon-coloured clothing and a few guys wearing the shiny multi-coloured sunglasses.

So, yes – there are those who have absolutely no idea about the rules of the forest and it’s sad that people carry their city behaviour and bad habits back to the forest. I wish there was a way in which such people could be banned from entering. They deserve to live only in the cities and not be let out.

But otherwise, the monsoons are a low peak season so not too many people venture to these parts. I’m glad we did though. Despite the showers, we did sight animals and enjoyed the lushness that the forest offers during this season. An an interesting fact to know: Karnataka’s forests are open throughout the year, unlike many others which close down during the rains.

The forest is lush and green and so beautiful during the rains

Just as we were exiting the reserve, we catch a glimpse of this beautiful guy with rippling muscles. The Indian gaur, in case you were thinking of a Bollywood actor. The gaur is a rather huge creature and with his impressive horns; you don’t want to be too close. He looked up for a bit to give us a pointed stare and then went back to his busy work task of chomping on something green. Was he scaring us off to say don’t come back too often?
Just after he went back to his meal of the day!
But, despite his word of warning, I know I’ll be back.

About Jungle Lodges
Jungle Lodges operates 16 resorts spread all across Karnataka including Bheemeshwari, Dandeli, Devbagh, Bandipur, Kabini, Bidar amongst many others. Accommodations varies from tents to rooms to independent cottages. Besides, there are 3 resorts operated on management contract. The company promotes eco-tourism, wildlife tourism, adventure tourism and various outdoor activities like trekking, camping, white water rafting, fishing etc., that are non consumptive components of eco-tourism and in general help in environment conservation.

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Six reasons why you should travel in the monsoons

I’m sure there are more, but let’s start with six. In fact, while many tourists shy away from travelling because it’s raining, true travellers will tell you that a place can be enjoyed despite the rain. It’s a mindset that you need to avoid a destination when it rains. Unless, it happens to be a big city. In which case I would say avoid it like plague. You don’t want to deal with clogged roads, drainage overflowing, traffic jams and all the associated issues that the rains bring to our very well planned cities.

A little piece of paradise
The view from a tea garden in Pozhuthana, Wayanad

Anyway, this is about the monsoons. And why it’s a great time to travel. Any place takes on a different hue during the rains. I was in Goa last year for 3 weeks and had the time of my life despite the torrential downpours.

It’s lush and green

The valley before you spreads out like a lush carpet. The roads are framed by green trees and grass on both sides. The hills are showing off their full foliage, again in green. It’s so green that if you’re not used to it, you’d probably need tinted glasses to tone it down. But seriously, green is definitely the colour of the season and we all know that it’s the best one to get your relaxed and rejuvenated. Nature really wears this colour well.

boys having fun
A sight for sore eyes!

You get better deals

You might need to look around a bit and even ask for discounts, but this is a season where you will get lower prices from a lot of home stays, resorts, hotels. If you’re not sure, just ask them. We are spoilt for choose today in the array of options available. And in this era of social media, even if we don’t look for them, they will probably land up in our stream anyway.

Lesser people to fight with for space

So one of the reasons I travel is to get away from the city (where I clearly see the alarming impact of producing a billion and more people) to smaller destinations and locations where you’ll see a soul once in a while. Get away from the madding crowds, the hoi-polloi and give yourself some breathing space. I love the feeling and I recommend it to everyone (at least once in a while).

Nestled in between
Choose places a bit away from the main towns – usually they’re much more peaceful and calm

There’s colour everywhere

Just before the onset of the monsoons, it’s a pretty sight all around. While on a walk outside today in Wayanad where I am currently, I saw so much variety in foliage that I couldn’t stop myself from clicking everything in sight. From vivid reds, to oranges, to colourful yellows and pretty pinks – there are beautiful blossoms everywhere adding to the prettiness quotient of your frames.

A time for blossoms
It’s amazingly pretty this time of the year and you need to step out to witness nature’s gorgeous hues

Carrying a torch for you
A flower called ginger torch that I saw for the first time

Rediscover the joy of getting soaked

I remember as kids, we loved getting wet in the rains. In fact, we would wait impatiently so we could all rush out and do our rain dance. Our parents had to cajole us to come indoors since we would just be out for hours on end. But what a feeling. Do it sometime. Just get wet. Feel the rain on your skin. Instead of running for a raincoat or an umbrella, soak in the sensation of a rain bath. I can tell you from experience – it’s true joy. Last year, on a trek in Wayanad, I got soaked to the skin as it started pouring cats and dogs. But once I gave in to it, began to enjoy the feeling, I realised that I need to let go. (And yes, we will eventually dry off.)

Comparing notes
With or without rain gear, have some fun

Smell the coffee. And the flowers

The monuments are done and dusted. The hectic sightseeing has been completed. Now, just sit on your balcony and watch the rain. Meditate. Open the door of your room and just relax. Do yoga. Listen to the birds. The rains are a great time to just not venture out and give yourself the “me” time you so badly need (and you didn’t even know)!

A welcome view
I totally believe in doing nothing holidays – they are good for the soul


Another reason, contributed by a friend

Monsoons are the best time for ayurvedic massages

So, during the Kerala Blog Express, we met a doctor at the Manaltheeram Ayurvedic resort who told us about how the ayurvedic massage is the most effective during the rainy season. In fact, many guests come specifically during this period for treatments. A combination of the temperature, rains and other factors all adds to increasing the effectiveness of the oils. So, isn’t this reason enough?!

So there – I hope I’ve given you enough reasons to step out this rainy season. And if you did, or plan to, do share your “getting soaked” experience!

More photos on Flickr

(NOTE: On this trip, I am using the Canon 500D body and the 17-85 mm lens. All photos [except no 3 and 7 from an earlier collection] in the post are with this equipment provided my photography gear & equipment partner, “Book My Lens”. I’m happy to announce them as a partner and I’m quite impressed with the kind of services they provide. They are a photography equipment rental service based in Bangalore which provides quick service for photography enthusiasts who want to experience all lenses and accessories from Canon and Nikon. Their aim is to provide the best in class, at affordable prices. Do check them out on