Scent of cardamom and taste of fresh honey: A visit to the Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow

There’s something about a bungalow that was constructed in the 1800s. It feels like stepping back in time. The way the doors close. The old style latches and windows. The feel of the cool red floor under your bare feet. But the TV and the WiFi suddenly brings you back to present tense also giving you a sense of modern comforts!

A part of the bungalow which has been renovated for guests. Photo courtesy: KH Plantation

A bit of history – “the current owner’s grandfather, K K Kurian Kalarickal, settled in this area (Idukki district) in the early 1900s when the hills were still thick with forests and wildlife. He was among a few pioneers to make his way into the mountains and begin cultivating them.”

Luckily, this area is untouched and still verdant and retains much of it’s charm. K K Kurian built this original bungalow in 1918 and for many years it was a landmark in Idukki. It doubled up as a village office for planters and visitors who came for advise. The bungalow was built using clay instead of cement.

A glimpse of the old heritage building

I was lucky that Sam Mathew, the grandson of Mr Kurian Kalarickal had come down personally from Mumbai during my quick trip to the bungalow. Merin, his wife had extended a gracious invite to come and stay at the property.

The plantation spans many acres and the best way to get around is the all terrain vehicle. Photo courtesy: KH Plantation

Sam gives me an insight of plantation life. The area is huge and I get to ride on an ATV which is a handy vehicle to cover the hilly terrain around the plantation and property. I accompany him as he shows me the different areas. We go up a green woody trail to the highest point in the property. We’re surrounded by dense trees on all sides. It’s beautiful and serene and Sam reveals that he might just construct something here for those wanting to get away from the hustle and bustle.

The life and times of cardamom!

The highpoint of my visit to Kalarickal however is a different experience; a visit to an auction. The product being traded? Cardamom! I never knew there could be so much commotion over this small innocuous looking spice. Apparently, the life of a cardamom pod is filled with much excitement. From the time it’s grown, harvested, dried and then put into gunny bags and then at the auction house, when it’s tossed around from one buyer to another in the hope that it commands a good price in the market. I think it wouldn’t hurt much to be born a cardamom sometime.

Cardamon is a spice that is used in many different dishes. It is used extensively in the preparation of Indian sweets, something Sam reveals (and I didn’t know!). I learn something everyday. Many large companies buy it in bulk to add to their sweets. And a lot of the cardamon also gets exported to cater to the huge demand overseas.

On the auction ground, men (no women here) are hunched over computer screens, sniffing at cardamom packets, eyeing them suspiciously, tossing them aside or eyeing them with great interest. All for a good cause. And then a large screen on the top shows how much the buyer is willing to pay for it. And then the next batch goes around.

People also watch from the sidelines. Many of them are sellers, informs Sam. These folks often come up to buyers to try and egg them to purchase their lots or least inform them it’s up next. And then on one side there’s a flurry of activity; sorting, weighing and packaging. Making me wonder if some stuff doesn’t get mixed up. And what happens to all the cardamom tossed aside!

With thoughts like these playing in my head, we get back to the bungalow and the smell of delicious food wafting in the air. Let me warn you folks that it’s not a good idea to visit Kerala on a diet. I have tried to keep away from all these delicious treats and failed miserably. Every time I go with steely resolve. And return defeated. And several pounds heavier. Let me get back to the food. There was a dry chicken fry preparation, a yummy avial laced with coconut, and piping hot appams with egg stew. I threw caution to the winds and expanding waistline and started to dig in.

Soft and delicious Kerala appams with stew – one signature dish you can’t miss if you’re in Kerala

The dining area for meals. Photo Courtesy: KH Plantation

I also get a taste of fresh honey made from hives on the property. And a quick lesson about these hardworking insects and the art of creating honey. They create honey, covering them in hexagonal structures inside the hive, using the support of the small wooden frames placed inside. We take out a slab and remove a slice of the “white” piece. And out oozes the nectar. I’ve never had such fresh honey before!

The main bungalow is designed to fit in large families and the rooms are interconnected. It’s suitable for for families who want to keep an eye out on their errant kids.

Besides the main building, there are also a few more rooms in another long building (which was earlier a shed) but now has been converted into comfortable stand-alone rooms. These are also an option if you are travelling as a couple in a smaller group.

A shed, now converted into comfortable rooms. Photo courtesy: KH Plantation

The property also has an ample playground outside with swings, see-saws and whatever young children need these days. I suspect an iPad, but well, one mustn’t give up hope completely.

There are some sights around which you might also want to explore, especially if you have a few days in hand. You will be close to sights such as the Periyar Wildlife sanctuary, Munnar, Idukki dam and the Managala Devi temple. There are other activities like plantation walks and hikes that can be organised. Or I recommend what I prefer – a full day of lounging chair, eating good food and doing nothing. Maybe just read a book, sleep and laze.

Relax and breathe in the fresh air scented with cardamom!

If you’re looking at options in the Idukki district which are homely, comfortable and take you away from the hustle and bustle; the Kalarikal Heritage Bungalow makes for a good choice.

The website: Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow
Tariff: Starts from Rs 3250 and also includes breakfast. Other meals are additional.
Rooms: 3 premium and 2 classic.
Facebook: Kalarickal Heritage Bungalow
My Flickr Album (some of the pics are courtesy KH Plantation)